GALICIA, SPAIN

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Where is Galicia?

Hovering above Portugal in northwest Spain, Galicia is a sacred place coveted by adventurers and Albariño lovers alike. However, given its vastness and semi-remote location, it’s not heavily touristed or given its due credit.

As the case with the Camino de Santiago, weeks or months can be dedicated to exploring the five wine denominations that make up this region. Galicia stretches more than 1,000 miles of coastline, across treacherously steep river valleys and up mountain peaks of over 6,500 ft. The extreme beauty and diversity is unlike nearly any other area in the world.

History of Galicia

Galicia has been at the crossroads of civilization for thousands of years. However, the miraculous discovery of St. James’ tomb in 813 cemented its fate as a holy land. From the 11th to 12th centuries it was the third most important center of Christianity, behind Jerusalem and Rome. Following parts of the ancient Roman trade routes, the Camino de Santiago was born as a means to spread Christianity. This network of pilgrim roads has been utilized to varying extents ever since.

Despite its religious fame, Galicia suffered through centuries of wars, the plague, phylloxera and natural disasters. This included a mini ice age in the 19th century. By the 20th century, the agricultural industry was nearly decimated and waves of emigration ensued. Countless vineyards were abandoned. Finally, upon joining the European Union in 1986, Galician agriculture and the wine industry began to recover. Native Galicians have since returned home to help replant indigenous grapes and share their incredible wine with the world.

To visit the two denominations I recommend below, you can base yourself in the southwestern coastal city of Pontevedra as I did, or just up the coast to the town of Cambados for very quick access to all things Albariño. Cruises stop in Vigo, and for that reason I would avoid staying there if you do not enjoy mass tourism and crowds. For mountain and river aficionados, you can stay inland in Ourense or in the center of Galicia in the famous Camino city of Santiago de Compostela. The later is the most central base for visiting any of the five wine denominations and can be easily accessed by train or plane. I flew into Santiago de Compostela and devoured many tapas during my short stay in the historic and picturesque town. Stay tuned for the forthcoming SdC city guide.

Galician Wine Denominations

Ribeira Sacra

With terraces created by the Roman’s over 2,000 years ago, Ribeira Sacra cradled some of the Empire’s most ancient vines. After phylloxera, the region was partially revitalized but still has a long way to go. The manual work required and wet climate can be very unforgiving. On the banks of the Miño River, Chantada is known as the heart of the region and is a great place to base your exploration.

Bodega Ribada is an excellent family producer growing and making organic wines from beautiful mountain vines high above the Miño. I had the pleasure of meeting and tasting with the owner, Manuel Calvo Mendez, who in 2005 bought and rehabilitated the forgotten vines, transforming the property into a healthy and thriving ecosystem. Primarily focusing on different expressions of 100% Mencía, Bodega Ribada also produces a juicy, medium bodied Godello white.

I was also able to try a variety of top Ribeira Sacra wines at a local wine festival. Peza do Rei and Guímaro (meaning rebel) were by far my favorites. They both respect traditional low/no intervention winemaking techniques and make exceptional young and age-worthy bottles of Godello and Mencía. Families and courageous winemakers such as Guímaro’s Pedro Manuel Rodríguez, are the impetus behind replanting indigenous varietals and revitalizing abandoned lands. In addition to owning 8 hectares, Rodriguez is sourcing grapes from properties he’s now encouraged and successfully convinced to stop the use of pesticides. Another great producer to seek out is Bodega Diego de Lemos, who in 2002 was the first certified organic producer in Galicia. Thanks to these proud stewards of the land, the future of this heroic wine region is looking very bright.

While the region is home to many incredible handcrafted wines, I also visited larger producers who are making considerably lower quality Mencía. Most were over-oaked, muted/dead and highly alcoholic. While not always the case, this contrast stood as a reminder that the meticulous care and attention that traditional, smaller, family producers put into their winemaking, nearly always translates to the final product. To that point, the neighboring eastern region of Bierzo is also producing high quality Mencía, and is worth a visit.

Rías Baixas

This coastal area grows some of the best Albariño in the world, along with much smaller quantities of Caiño Tinto. Its proximity to the Atlantic combined with alluvial top soils and granite below makes it perfect for cultivating this acidic, salty varietal which pairs perfectly with the area’s abundant seafood. I lost track of how many times I had Galician octopus with a crisp glass of Albariño. At its best, Albariño is aromatic with hints of lemon, lime and stone fruit. Some can lean more in the direction of apple or pear. It’s long on the finish with layers of flavor.

A 15 minute drive from Cambados, or 30 minutes from Pontevedra, puts you in the Salnés Valley where you can visit numerous producers with varying styles. I enjoyed many glasses from producers including Añada de Baladiña, Leirana and Lagar de Pintos. Making wines from both Rias Baixas and Ribeira Sacra is also Bodegas Nanclares. Their lineup of terroir-driven, old vine wines are definitely worth seeking out!

Galicia Today

As for the wines of today, whites are notably more developed and consistent, while the native red Mencía is quickly trying to play catch up. Unlike arid southern Italy and northern California, Galicia is wet and humid, making it very difficult to avoid disease and pests without chemical intervention. I focused my exploration on finding those who have been able to achieve organic or low intervention/non chemical winemaking, despite these challenges. Nearly all I mention fall into this category. Below, I’ve focused on two diverse denominations that represent high quality reds and whites of Galicia.

Galician Wines

White Wines (Vino Blanco)

Albariño – Lively, fresh and citrusy with surprising complexity from the Rías Baixas. Aromatic with hints of lemon, lime and stone fruit. Some can lean more in the direction of apple or pear. It’s long on the finish with layers of flavor.

Godello – Medium bodied and dynamic, it’s best grown in Ribeira Sacra. Mouth coating with juicy and concentrated tree fruit. Huge aging potential when vinified properly. Some aliken the richness to Chardonnay.

Treixadura – Grown in the Ribeiro (and Portugal), its more viscous body can often lend structure to blends and stand up with notes of tart apple on its own.

Red Wines (Vino Tinto)

Mencía – The indigenous red of Galicia, a medium-full bodied aromatic grape that can be elegant as well as powerful, depending on how its cultivated and produced. Un-oaked versions typically retain their luscious fruit and herbal character, while new oak can be overkill.

Caiño Tinto – An indigenous high acid grape from Rías Baixas with relatively unknown potential as a single varietal. Caiño plays well with Mencía in red blends like that of Guímaro’s excellent Camino Real. It can also be found in Portugal as Borraçal. Zárate produces one of the few mono-varietals you can look for in the U.S.

Galician Food - You Must Try

Pulpo a Feira or a la Gallega (Octopus) – Boiled whole, cut into pieces and served on a wooden board with potatoes, paprika, salt and olive oil.

Gambas (Shrimp)– Grilled in their shell with olive oil.

Chutela (Chops) – Beef or pork chops in various sizes, simply seasoned with salt.

Calamari or Chipirones (Baby Squid) – Grilled or fried with olive oil and lemon, the best I’ve eaten.

Jamon Iberico (Iberico Ham) – These pigs are fed a diet of chestnuts, thereby producing a meat more sweet and flavorful than you’ve ever had. The omega 3 fatty acids it contains make it quasi-healthy!

Empanadas – Delicious, savory, layered pastries as shown on the sheet pan next to the whole Octopus. They are not argentine crescent shaped pockets like you would imagine.

Galician Bread – An incredibly crunchy crust meets a soft, pillowy center. Use it to soak up the olive oil from your pulpo.

Tapas – Tapas offerings vary from city to city and bar to bar. You will likely find seafood, pork and veggie options ranging from 1 euro to about 3 euro.

Espresso – Every time you order an espresso you will receive a complimentary small piece of cake to accompany it. Every time, everywhere.